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Sometimes it is enough to listen to a drum rumble at midnight or contemplate the glow of the Castillo de los Vélez over the orchard to understand that Mula grows between pulses of history and fertile land.
Here, time is measured in two pulses: that of the river that feeds the valley and that of the drum that bursts every Holy Tuesday. Between Sierra Espuña and the Perea hills, Mula combines the freshness of its thermal baths with fiery sunsets over the drylands.
The journey is savored in young wines, early harvest oils, and honeys that distill mountain rosemary, while the cobbled streets narrate stories of Romans, Andalusians, and noble conquerors.
The vestiges of the Roman villa of Los Villaricos and the Arab conduits testify that the need to irrigate already forged identity two millennia ago.
Later, the Fajardo family would arrive, who erected the fortress that dominates the hill in the 16th century.
From this watchtower, the silk roads, the transhumance of the herds, and the thermal springs whose waters still spring south of the town were watched over.
Each era added a layer: the silk of the 18th century, the gypsum mining in the 19th, the export of stone fruit in the 20th, and today a tourism that seeks authenticity in the baths, the hermitages, and the greenway that crosses the old stops of the railway line.
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Holy Tuesday. At twelve o’clock sharp, thousands of drum rolls erupt without a prior score, the Night of the Drums transforms the streets into an ocean of red and black robes that vibrates until dawn.
In April, the pilgrimage to the Niño de Mula goes up to the hermitage of El Balate between songs and esparto luminaries. And at the end of the summer, the September Fair mixes bull runs, festivals, and an unmistakable aroma of caramelized almonds that floods the Paseos.
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